E-10 ETHANOL FUEL AND WINTER BOAT LAYUP (October 2006)

This spring and with little prior notice, recreational boaters in most parts of the country were introduced to gasoline containing higher concentrations of ethanol, a corn-based additive that replaced a known carcinogen, MTBE. The new fuel, dubbed "E-10" for its 10% ethanol content, unfortunately has the ability to attract greater amounts of water and "phase separate," or form two separate solutions in the gas tank, usually over a long period of time. Once this happens, the engine won't run and internal damage could occur.

Many boaters are asking how they should store their boat over the winter to prevent fuel problems next year. The BoatU.S. damage prevention newsletter, Seaworthy, tackles the problem in its October issue and has these recommendations:

• Once phase separation occurs in E-10 gasoline, additives and water separators can't help. The only remedy is to have the gas and ethanol/water professionally removed from the tank.

• With any fuel that sits in a tank for a long time, it's important to add a stabilizer. But understand that stabilizers do not prevent phase separation.

• E-10 has been a fact of life in certain areas of the Midwest for over a decade and there have been relatively few problems. The best practical recommendation learned from marina operators in the region is to top off a boat's fuel tanks to about 95% full, leaving room for expansion. A tank that is almost full limits the flow of air into and out of the vent, which reduces the chance of condensation adding water to the fuel. Draining fuel tanks of E-10 gas, while completely eliminating any chances of phase separation, is potentially dangerous and an impractical solution.

• Whether you believe your boat's fuel tanks are half full or half empty, leaving a tank partially filled is a bad move. A Midwest marina owner confirmed that phase separation problems typically occurred when boats were stored over the winter with tanks only one quarter to one-half full. In the summer, infrequently used boats with partially filled tanks are also prone to phase separation.

• Never try to plug up a fuel tank vent to prevent moist air from entering a tank. Without room to expand, the additional pressure could rupture fuel system components.

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  PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES

• Always look for the Coast Guard approval number on any PFD you purchase.

• Try on your PFD to see if it fits comfortably snug. Then test it in shallow water to see how it handles. To check the buoyancy of your PFD in the water, relax your body and let your head tilt back. Your PFD should keep your chin above water, and you should be able to breathe easily.

• PFD's on athletic builds will rarely "ride up" when in the water. But if your mid-section is bigger than your chest, you may find that your PFD tends to float up under your chin. If this is the case, make sure this condition does not compromise the performance of the PFD, and if it does, look for a model or size that does not.

• Be aware that your PFD may not act the same in swift or rough water as it does in calm water.

• Never alter your PFD. If yours doesn't fit, get one that does.

• Don't put heavy objects on your PFD or use it for a kneeling pad or boat fender. PFD's lose buoyancy when crushed.

• Assign life jackets to each passenger, and make sure they fit, the straps are secure and adjusted properly, and are readily accessible to that person should the need arise. Do this BEFORE you depart. It's too late when you're in the water.

• Coast Guard approved inflatible PFD's are only approved for use by those over 16 years of age, and are not recommended for non-swimmers. They are not approved for PWC operation, either.

• Having CG approved PFD's aboard for each passenger isn't enough. They should be the right size for those passengers, and must be "readily accessible". That means they should be within easy reach of you and your passengers so they can be donned in a hurry should an emergency arise. We've seen too many life jackets still sealed in plastic, tucked nicely out of site in some obscure compartment or locker. Get them out in the open and within reach!

• Check your PFD's frequently for grease or rot. Pull on the straps with force, and if the strap tears off or pulls a seam, consider yourself lucky that it did it in your hands rather than on the torso of your son or daughter. Check your PFD for rips, tears or holes, mildew, shrinkage, or waterlogging.

• Now there's a law that requires that anyone aboard your boat who is age 13 or under must be WEARING a properly-fitted, CG approved PFD. This applies to all Federal waterways, and several states are introducing or have passed legislation to implement a similar regulation for non-Federal waterways. There's no excuse for not having life jackets on small children when boating. They can't make those decisions for themselves, and depend on you for their safety. Little kids can be over the side in a heart beat, so fit them out with a PFD, and remind them that the Coast Guard guys wouldn't THINK of going out on the water without them on. They'll think that's cool.

• Teach your children how to relax their arms and legs in the water, so that if they fall in, the PFD will keep them afloat in a "face up" position. If a child panics when they take a sudden fall into the water, they'll thrash around. In those cases, a PFD may not keep them face up.

• When retrieving someone from the water, tie a length of polypropylene line to your type IV throwable PFD. For one thing, someone in the water who is a little stressed anyway will feel more confident knowing you're at the end of a line with him or her at the other end. Secondly, if you throw it to someone and MISS, you can quickly retrieve the device and try again.

• Choose life jackets with bright colors, preferably orange or red. If your child wants a black one with Barney on it and promises to wear it, that's still better than having none. But if you boat in conditions where someone may need to see you in the water, you'll want to be as visible as possible.

• PFD's that are labelled as "type V" must be worn to be counted toward the minimum PFD on board requirements.

• Some state require that PFD's be worn while aboard the vessel, and those laws are usually age-specific. Be sure and check with YOUR local agencies to make sure you're operating your boat within those regulations.

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  COOL ESTIMATION TECHNIQUES

• Estimating Distances to Horizontal Objects - To make a quick estimate of distance, extend your arm straight out in the direction of the object, and stick your thumb up. Close one eye and line up one side of your thumb with the object (another boat or a building, for example). Now switch eyes quickly and observe how far your thumb appears to "jump" in relation to the object. You will have to estimate the length of the object. (For example, you may guess that a pontoon boat is 24 feet in length.) Let's say that your thumb appear to jump three times the length of the pontoon boat, or roughly 75 feet. Now multiply 75 feet by 10, and you will find that the pontoon boat is roughly 750 away from you.

• Estimating the Position of a Center of Atmospheric Low Pressure (unstable air, stormy) - Stand with your face into the wind, and extend your right arm out to your right side, just beyond 90 degrees. Your hand will be pointing in the general direction of the center of a low pressure area. Why useful? Let's say you're out on a body of water and it begins to look or feel like the weather may be changing. Using this method, you determine the approximate location of the low pressure area. If that direction seems to be north of you, and storms at that time of year in your area generally move from southwest to northeast, the low will probably not affect you adversely. However, if you find yourself pointing southwest with this method, you may wish to further assess your plans in light of the fact that you are probably in the path of approaching instability in the atmosphere (storm). This method is called Buys Ballot's Law, and has been used by mariners for centuries to assess changes in weather. Remember, it is only one aid in your arsenal of decision-making tools.

• Judging the Risk of Collision - "Relative Bearing" is the term used to describe the angle between your boat and another boat or object. For example, the relative bearing of a boat directly in front of your boat is 0 degrees, directly behind you, 180 degrees, and so on. To use relative bearings to determine your risk of collision with another boat, the actual bearing in degrees is not needed. All you need to know is whether the bearing of the other boat, in relation to yours, is changing or staying the same as you move through the water over time. To determine this, start by "sighting" the other vessel over a fixed object on your own boat, such as the end of the windshield or a cleat. Then, without moving your head, check from time to time to see if the other vessel is still sighted in that same place, using the same position of your eyesight and the sighting object on your boat as before. If the other vessel is still in the same exact position relative to your boat, you are on a collision course. If the other vessel has moved "forward" from your sight position, the other vessel will ultimately cross in front of you. If the other vessel has moved "backward" from your sight position, you will ultimately cross in front of them.

• Judging Approximate Distances to Shorelines - On the water, the distance to the horizon in statute miles is about 1.33 times the square root of your height above the water. In most runabouts, your position in the helm is about 4 feet above the water's surface. The square root of 4 is 2, so you multiply 2 times 1.33, and you get 2.66. So, when you first see the waves lapping at the white sandy beach where you'll be having lunch, you'll have a bit less than 3 miles to go before chowing down. If you're standing on the flybridge of a cruiser, and you're about 16 feet off the water, you'd use the square root of 16, or 4 foot, times 1.33, to find that you're a little over five miles from the shore.

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  TOWS, RESCUES AND EMERGENCIES

• It makes good sense to tow another boat with a twisted nylon line of adequate size and dependable integrity, so that the stretch in the line softens any shock to the cleats on both boats. The drawback is that if the line does give way, the stretch in the line will cause it to snap back with great velocity and force. So a good rule to follow is that if there is considerable strain on the line which could cause it to break, (such as in heavy weather) move to a line with less stretch, like dacron. Dacron will be tougher on the cleats because it has no or little stretch, but if it snaps, it won't fire a lethal missile toward one boat or the other, but should drop harmlessly into the water.

• Don't tow another boat unless you are sure that your cleats and his will take the load and are through bolted with a backing plate. When a cleat is pulled free under strain, it becomes a lethal missile to anyone standing in its path.

• A towline should be one that is quickly tied, easily adjusted, and easily cast off. Metal fittings on the towline or bridle can become lethal missiles if the line breaks, so don't use them. (They can also sink the line into the prop if not properly tended.)

• Use a bridle for towing, unless your boat is equipped with a special towing bit or sampson post on the centerline and forward of the rudder. (And I'll bet it's not.) The bridle can be attached to your aft cleats if they can be trusted, or to the boat's lifting hardware which you'll usually find bolted to the transom. The length of the bridle should be about 3 times the width of your boat.

• When you're heaving a line to another boater or someone ashore, tie one end of the line to a rail or something else on or in the boat, making sure its not underfoot or in danger of getting in the way. With practice, you should be able to toss an unweighted, coiled line at least 30 feet.

• When preparing to tow a Personal Watercraft, make sure the air vent in the front cowling is covered. Water from your wake can enter, and sink the disabled PWC. Connect the towline to the trailer eye, and if the operator is aboard, have him/her shift their weight as far back as possible. Consider a "hip tow" in calm waters in tight quarters, and in rough seas, bring the operator on board the towing vessel.

• If an aircraft or helicopter is close by, do NOT shine a light directly at it to get the pilot's attention, regardless of how much trouble you think you're in. Also, do not shoot a flare in the direction of an approaching aircraft or helo. You can easily blind the pilot, and if you do, your troubles will just be STARTING. Hand-held, automotive type flares work best when you're trying to get the attention of an aircraft which is in your immediate vicinity.

• Practice man-overboard drills with your crew and/or family members. The drill should go something like this..... Yell loudly to alert everyone on board if someone goes overboard, and toss something floatable overboard immediately. Have someone assigned to point at the MOB and keep pointing until the helmsman says its OK to stop pointing. Sound five or more short blasts on the horn (the danger signal) to alert other boats in the area. Approach the MOB upwind or upcurrent slowly until your boat is in a retrieval position, and then shut off the engine. Bring the MOB into the boat over the stern. Practicing this simple drill can save a life.

• If you're on shore, assisting a person in the water, follow these four steps in this order....first REACH for the person, using your arm, a jacket, belt, oar, or a fishing rod. If that doesn't work....THROW something that will float, like a life cushion, life jacket, plastic bottle, beach toy, ball, thermos jug, or piece of wood. If they are too far away, ROW....using a log, air mattress, surfboard, or anything else you can paddle with your hands. The last option is to GO....the risk of this last resort is that now there are two people in the water, so only go if you are a strong swimmer and have had some training in lifesaving.

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  PROPER LOADING

• The Coast Guard requires all single-hulled boats of less than 20 feet in length to have a capacity plate, installed where visible from the operator's station. Since most boats in the U. S. are less than 20 feet in length, more than 50% of boaters need to know what it says and why. The capacity plate tells you the maximum number of people or carrying weight in pounds, and the maximum horsepower recommended for the boat. Overloading your boat, either in weight or in power, can be fatal.

• Do not exceed the maximum capacity as shown on the boat's capacity plate. If there is no such label or plate on your boat, use the formula "number of people= (length of boat)times (width of boat)divided by 15".

• When you're loading your small boat at the dock, have someone stand in the center part of the boat while you hand things into the boat to them. Don't step or jump into a small boat loaded down with the ice chest, soda, and snacks.

• Try and balance your load fore and aft, as well as side to side. Your boat will perform better, you'll maneuver easier, and you'll generally be much more stable on the water.

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  CARBON MONOXIDE

• Carbon Monoxide (CO) accumulation is affected by a multitude of variables, such as boat geometry, hatch openings, ventilation, proximity to other structures, swim platforms, canvas, location of exhaust outlets, vessel attitude, wind speed and direction, boat speed, and system maintenance.

• You should install and maintain CO alarms inside your boat. Replace them when necessary, and don't ignore any alarms.

• Never sit, teak surf, or hang on the back deck or swim platform while the engines and/or generators are running. Teak surfing is NEVER a safe activity!

• Maintain fresh air circulation throughout the boat at all times. Run the exhaust blowers whenever the generator is operating.

• Know where your engine and generator exhaust outlets are located, and keep everyone away from these areas.

• Never enter areas under swim platforms where exhaust outlets are located unless the area has been properly ventilated.

• CO can be present without the smell of exhaust fumes. But if you DO smell exhaust fumes, CO is also present. Take immediate action to dissipate the exhaust fumes.

• Treat symptoms of seasickness with suspicion of carbon monoxide poisoning. Get the person into fresh air at once, and unless you are absolutely sure of seasickness, seek medical attention.

• Know where and how CO may accumulate in and around your boat. For a copy of the Coast Guard brochure "Carbon Monoxide Poisoning; What You Can't See...", visit the Coast Guard website, or call 800-368-5647.

• Get a Vessel Safety Check from a certified examiner of the U. S. Coast Guard Auxiliary or U. S. Power Squadrons. (For more information, visit www.safetyseal.net.)

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  WEATHER

• If caught in heavy weather, make sure everyone on board is wearing a life jacket. If offshore, jot down your current location. Reduce speed, secure all loose objects and rigging on deck, close or cover all hatches and openings, and put on a PFD. Also, make sure distress signals and life rafts are readily accessible. Turn toward the wind and approach waves at about 45 degrees. Stay low in the boat.

• If you'd like to know where the approximate center of a low pressure area is located (the source of most unstable weather), face the wind and extend your right arm out from your body about 100 degrees (a little further toward your back than sideways). You'll be pointing at it. If most storms generally approach your local area from the south, west, or southwest, for example, and your arm is pointing in that direction, you can be pretty certain the low is moving in your general direction. On the other hand, if you're pointing northwest, north, northeast, east, or southeast, the low is probably skirting you, or has already passed. You can then take appropriate action. This method of approximating the center of a low pressure area is called "Buys-Ballot's Law". (And, by the way, if you're in the Southern hemisphere, use the other arm.)

• There are rules to follow so that you don't get struck by lightning on the water, but nobody knows what they are. As a matter of fact, lightning is so unpredictable, that there is no guaranteed, sure-fire protection against being struck. You can take some precautions, like having your boat's bonding system grounded to the water, and constructing a "grounded" mast to a large underwater copper plate to provide a "cone of protection". But the best way to be safe from a lightning strike is to avoid being out in a lightning storm. If you can't, then have everybody put on a life jacket, have them put on rubber soled shoes if available, and have them sit down on the floor away from electrical panels and electronic gear. Never any guarantees with lightning, but you may decrease your chances of being struck. One nice thing to know, however, is that lightning strikes on land far outnumber strikes on the water. So that should give you SOME sense of well-being.

• Always monitor the weather forecast before going out on the water, whether its just for a day of water-skiing, or the first leg of an around-the-world cruise. TV and radio forecasts are good sources for local weather information. Then after you're on the water, watch for signs of changes in the weather. Rising or changing winds, darkening or thickening clouds, and sudden drops in temperature may all be signs of instability. When in doubt, get off the water.

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  BOATS AND EQUIPMENT

• Call your nearest Coast Guard Auxiliary or Power Squadron unit and ask them for a free, comprehensive Vessel Safety Check. They'll look over all your equipment to make sure that you meet State and Federal safety requirements, and give you lots of good ideas on how to be a safer boater.

• There are different boats for different folks! Choose the right boat for what you plan to do on the water. Some boats can provide utility for many purposes. Pontoon boats, for example, can serve as a swim platform, a stage from which to fish, and a spacious deck for small family gatherings. Some can even pull water-skiiers. So find the right kind of boat, and you'll enjoy boating the way you want to enjoy it.

• A referees whistle....one that depends on a moving "pea" to operate, is no good if filled or partially filled with water. Therefore, if you intend to use a whistle to satisfy the requirements for a "sound producing device", purchase one that doesn't depend upon moving parts. There are several on the market, and they are very inexpensive.

• Manufacturers of boats build seats into the boats for people to sit in. The gunwales (sides of the boat), the deck without rail, and the tops of the seats were not designed for sitting on. In most jurisdictions, it is against the law to sit on the tops of the seats or gunwales, and for good reason. A wake from another boat, waves, or sudden turns of the boat could easily result in a man overboard. If that happens to be the operator of the boat, it's even more dangerous. So sit "in the seats", not on them.

• Check to make sure your boat cleats are through-bolted and that a "backing plate" (hardwood or metal) is used. Check periodically to make sure the nuts and bolts holding your cleats are tight. This will be crucial if you ever need to be towed, or if you are tied to a pier or anchored in rough water.

• If you have an inboard engine, you are required to have a tight, clean backfire flame arrester mounted on top of the carburetor. Run your finger across bottom fins of the arrestor periodically. If your fingers come up greasy, remove the flame arrestor and clean it in hot, soapy water, and dry it throughly before replacing it. NEVER CLEAN A FLAME ARRESTOR WITH GASOLINE OR OTHER VOLATILE SOLVENTS.

• Always carry some sort of alternative "de-watering device" on board your boat. An electric bilge pump is fine, but only if you have electric power. Many times a damaged boat, taking on water, has lost it's electrical power. A good back-up is a portable, lightweight, PVC handpump. But, a bucket, an ice chest, an emptied tool box, or anything else that can be used to bail can make the difference between sinking and staying afloat.

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  BOATERS AND ALCOHOL

  Most boaters understand the risks involved when someone drinks alcohol and gets behind the helm. But what happens if an inebriated boating guest is injured or even dies? The startling answer lies in May 2005 issue of Seaworthy, the damage avoidance magazine from BoatU.S.

  In "Alcohol, Guests and the Question of Liability'" two recent cases from the BoatU.S. marine insurance claim files bring light on the issue. "It's no secret that if you've been drinking heavily and your boat is involved in a serious accident, you could be held liable," says author and BoatU.S. Damage Avoidance Program Director Bob Adriance. "What may not be as apparent is the liability you assume for other people aboard who have been drinking. This is true even if you haven't had a drop of alcohol and are completely sober," he added.

  The Seaworthy feature describes an incident where a drunken man passed out on a boat's stern bench seat. Later that evening he apparently woke up, fell overboard and drowned. In another case, a vessel was returning from a bar when an inebriated guest went overboard unnoticed and perished.

  In the event of a serious accident, courts apportion liability - with the boat owner's share ranging from 0% to 100% - depending on the degree of perceived negligence. The dollar amount depends on the victim's age and what he or she expected to earn had they lived. There may also be awards for conscious pain and suffering and loss of companionship.

  When you total the potential for these awards they could easily surpass $300,000 - the amount of the "average" boating liability policy - especially if the deceased was young, in a high paying career field, or had children. To protect yourself, especially if you have significant assets at stake, Adriance advises purchasing an "umbrella" policy, which typically covers damages beyond standard boating liability policies. Umbrella policies are usually purchased with a homeowner's policy.

  "The lessons here are that you are responsible for the safety of all aboard, you should do whatever you can to discourage excessive drinking by anyone on your boat, and you should seriously consider adding umbrella coverage," said Adriance.

  • The affects of even a small amount of alcohol are exaggerated by bouncing on the water, sunshine and heat, and wind. A person usually unaffected by a small amount of alcohol can be significantly affected while boating.

  • The dangers of dying in the water from hypothermia are increased by use of alcohol...primarily because it's the alcohol that gets you into the cold water in the first place.

  • Most boating fatalities are from capsizing and falls overboard. And most falls overboard are caused by alcohol use.

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  LINES, DOCKING AND MOORING

• Your lines should be dry, neatly coiled, and kept out of the sun when not in use. You'll find the life and integrity of the lines will be extended greatly if you take care of them.

• Nylon line is best for tying up to a pier, because it has enough stretch to lessen the shock to your cleats when the boat jolts to a taut line. Twisted line is better than braided line for this purpose, for the same reason. Read more.

• A good boater approaches a dock or slip at clutch speed and in full control, regardless of wind or current conditions. Running up to a pier at half throttle, and slamming the engine in reverse to stop is a sign of poor boat handling skills. All maneuvers in and around other boats, piers, and docks should be done slowly and skillfully.

• In addition to appropriate mooring lines and anchor rode, carry a polyethylene or polypropylene heaving line on board. This material floats, and is a welcome sight to anyone in the water. My favorite color is blaze orange or yellow, which can be seen easily by someone at eye level to the water. And, it's less likely to get entangled in the prop. Of course, if you're retrieving someone over the stern or anywhere near the boat, the prop should not be turning anyway.

• Never tie up to buoys or other navigation aids. It's dangerous, and it's illegal.

• When boarding a small boat, keep low and step toward the middle of the boat. Hand ice chests, beverages, or other supplies to someone in the boat before boarding, or set them inside the boat.

• Secure all fenders inboard when leaving pier or dock facility. Nothing will make you look more like an inexperienced boater (I put it delicately) than to run your boat across the water with your fenders flopping outboard.

• Before you approach a pier, make certain that everybody on board knows what they're supposed to do. If it's just sit still and stay out of the way, tell them that. I can think of nothing more risky to fingers, hands, arms, and even heads than to have everybody in the boat reaching overboard to grab ahold of the pier or a piling to "help you out".

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  LIGHTS AND NIGHT BOATING

• If you're in a powerboat at night, and see another boat's red light and white light, but not the green light, you are generally in a "give-way" position. This means that you must slow, turn, stop, or make whatever other maneuver is necessary to stay out of that boat's way. If you see both the red and green light and a white light, you are meeting the other boat head-on. If you see only the white light, you are running up the stern of the other boat, or the other boat is at anchor, or it may be a sailboat under sail. If you see the green and white light and not the red, you are considered the boat of privilege, or "stand on" vessel. But remember, having that privilege or status is of little solice if there is a collision, so avoid collision at any cost.

• Remember, a general rule is that the more lights you see on a vessel at night, the larger it is and the more you should try and avoid it.

• Carry spare light bulbs of the kind and type for all your navigation light fixtures, and know how to change them. Having nav lights on your boat that don't work is considered the same as not having nav lights on your boat. If you ARE in a situation where your nav lights poop out and you can't fix them, light as many flashlights as you can and wave them around in all directions as you make your way to safe harbor.

• If you see yellow lights on the water, you are encountering a large vessel or barge being towed. Stay well clear of this hazard!

  Night boating is deceptive. Always reduce your speed at night, and keep a sharp lookout for lights of other boats, and debris.

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  RULES OF THE ROAD

• Although there is no such thing as a "right-of-way" in boating, there are written rules which specify who has certain "privilege" in meeting, crossing, or overtaking situations on the water. These "Rules of the Road", or NavRules or Colregs, should be reviewed and complied with. But the cardinal rule, above all others, is that the skipper should use every means at his or her disposal to avoid collision....even if it means breaking every rule ever written.

• Did you know that both Inland and International Rules require you to post a "lookout". That could be the helmsman or anybody else on board, but the importance of this rule will be evident to you if you are ever involved in a collision with another boat. People who get paid for asking embarrassing questions (called "attorneys") will be asking everybody on board if you posted a lookout. If nobody knows what he's talking about, it won't look good for you. So make a habit of appointing one member of your crew to watch for other traffic and to listen for trouble. And if it's a long trip, rotate that responsibility to avoid fatigue.

• All vessels over 39.4 feet in length, operating in Navigable Waters, must carry a copy of the NAVRULES with them on the vessel. But whatever the size of your boat, you should read and understand these rules before you place yourself in the responsible position of a boat operator. You wouldn't think of operating a car without knowing the rules of the road...and you shouldn't operate a boat without knowing them, either.

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  USE YOUR COMMON SENSE

• Take a boating course from your local Power Squadron, CG Auxiliary, Red Cross, or State agency. Each year statistics show that less than 10% of the victims of fatal boating accidents were known to have taken any kind of formal boating course. Statistically, the "edge" seems to go toward the "edge-ucated". Boating courses are fun and could save your life or the lives of those near to you.

• Stay well clear of large vessels in restricted channels. Cargo ships, river tows, barges, and other large vessels are very restricted in their ability to stop and turn. Some heavily loaded ships in strong currents take miles to stop, even with engines full astern. So give them room!

• Make sure that someone else on board knows the basic operation and systems of your boat, In the event of your disablement as skipper, it might make the difference between life and death if someone else can get the boat to shore and operate the radio.

• Assign life jackets to each passenger, and make sure they fit, the straps are secure and adjusted properly, and are readily accessible to that person should the need arise. Do this BEFORE you depart. It's too late when you're in the water.

• Don't play chicken with buoys or other navigation aids. The markers may be sitting atop a rock pile, or the buoy chain may be angled your way because of wind or current. Also, if you happen to graze (mark) a buoy, damage it, or move it off station with your wake, you will cause great peril to other boaters who depend on them for safe navigation.

• Prepare a simple "pre-underway checklist" to keep on board. This can be a fun family activity, and it'll help ensure that you have everything required by law and by the wife and kids, on board and in good condition. Have one of the crew read the list out loud before you depart, so that all passengers can hear how prepared you are, and where important items on the boat are stowed. Then, as the impressive skipper of this very well managed craft, you can proudly and confidently check them off the list. (Commander Bob has created a fairly comprehensive checklist that can serve as a model.)

• It's never a bad idea to have someone else on your boat become familiar with the boat's systems, communications devices, and handling characteristics. That way, if something should happen to the skipper, the vessel could return to port quickly and safely, or help could be summoned.

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  LOCKS AND LOCKING THROUGH

• When locking through, always follow the directions of the lockmaster. He or she probably has far more experience than you do in matters of lock space management, hydraulics, and conditions affecting safe and efficient lockage.

• Before entering the lock, all passengers on deck during lockage should don PFD's, and any passenger with duties should be briefed. Fenders should be positioned to prevent damage from the lock wall and other boats.

• Don't approach the lock beyond the stand-off distance restriction, usually posted in the waiting pattern area. Be cautious about drifting into any adjacent dam or spillway areas while awaiting entry to the lock.

• When instructed or signalled to do so, enter the locks slowly and position your boat in accordance with lockmaster instructions. Unless instructed otherwise, DO NOT TIE UP TO THE LOCK WALL OR TO ANY LADDERS, HANDHOLDS, OR OTHER LOCK HARDWARE.

• When positioned on the lock wall, use boathooks to keep your boat parallel to the lock wall from bow and stern, and hold onto the lines, chains, sideboards, or whatever other lock structures or equipment is provided for that purpose.

• Turn the volume off on radios or other audio devices so that instructions can be heard and understood easily. Turn your engine OFF, and extinguish all smoking materials.

• When the lockage is complete, comply with the lockmaster instructions on departing the lock. At your turn, depart at a slow speed until well clear of the lock extension wall.

• Horn signals upon entry or departure are usually not required for recreational boaters, but if they are required where you boat, use them. It's also generally considered to be a courtesy to sound one short blast as you clear the locks.

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  ANCHORING AND GROUND TACKLE

• Remember, an anchor is more than just something to hold you in place while the kids take a dip. It can be a life-saver if you get caught out in heavy weather and are in danger of being blown into a treacherous shore or reef.

• Don't forget to tie off the bitter end of your anchor rode before lowering the anchor. There are already plenty of anchors on the bottom. It's better that you keep it with the boat.

• Choose an anchor for the size and type of your boat, and the type of bottom you'll be operating in most of the time.

• When anchoring, don't wind up and fling the anchor into the water. Lower it slowly to the bottom, and then let your boat drift or power back slowly to set the anchor. You need at least five feet of anchor line (rode) for every foot of distance from your deck to the sea floor. In a wind or waves, you should have a 7:1 ratio, or scope, of anchor line to depth of water. In other words, in 30 feet of water, you'll need at least 210 feet of line to safely anchor. Never anchor only from the stern. If a stern anchor is deemed advisable, for example in an area where swing is limited, then anchor from the stern only after a bow anchor has been firmly set, and then keep a close watch for changing wind direction. A wind off the stern can cause waves to break over the transom and swamp the boat.

• If you're anchoring in for the night, be sure and show your anchor light. Check to make sure you have adequate room to swing around your anchor if the wind should change.

• When your anchor is set and the boat has steadied on the anchor, eyeball a spot in the distance relative to something close to you on the boat. For example, standing in a certain spot, look across one particular cleat toward a signal tower on shore. Then check that same relative position 15 minutes later. If they no longer line up, and you can't attribute the difference to normal boat swing, you're probably adrift.

• Store your ground tackle (anchor, rode, chain) where its fairly accessible. In an emergency, you'll be glad you're able to get to it quickly.

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  BOAT AND PROPELLER IMPACT PREVENTION

• Recreational vessels less than 26 feet long account for 80% of the underwater impact injuries in which people in the water are struck by a boat or its propeller. Here are some tips to help prevent this from happening to you or someone you know:

• Always maintain a proper lookout. The greatest single cause of accidents in which people in the water are struck by a boat or its propeller is operator inattention or carelessness. Look at the area around your boat's propeller before starting the engine.

• Make sure the engine is off so the prepeller is not turning when passengers are boarding or disembarking the boat.

• Never start a boat with the engine in gear.

• Slow down when approaching congested areas and anchorages. In congested areas, always be alert for swimmers and divers.

• Be familiar with warning buoys signifying swimming areas and other hazardous areas.

• Before getting underway, make sure passengers are properly seated. Inform your passengers about the location and dangers of the propeller(s), and call attention to any propeller warning labels around your boat.

• Never allow passengers to ride on a seatback, gunwale, the transom, or on the bow unless the bow is surrounded with rail at a height which would prevent falls overboard.

• When water skiing, designate a passenger who will keep the skier(s) in sight at all times. Communicate with the skiier using the standard hand signals.

• Establish and communicate rules fro swim platform use, boarding ladders and seating. Your boat...your rules. Be clear and firm.

• If a passenger falls overboard, stop the boat. Then slowly and cautiously turn the boat in the direction of the person in the water, approach slowly while keeping the person in sight. Shut the engine off and bring the person to safety.

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  TRAILERING AND LAUNCHING

• Want to minimize the chances of trouble on the road with your trailer? Then pay attention to the three main causes of roadside breakdowns...flat tires, bearing failures, and tow vehicle problems like overheating. If you maintain your tires and bearing on the trailer properly, and make sure you have an appropriate and well maintained tow vehicle, you reduce your chances of a travel breakdown tremendously.

• Make sure your bias ply or radial trailer tires were made for trailering. A "ST" designation on the sidewall indicates "special trailer" used for boat trailers. These tires have stronger sidewalls than "P" (passenger) and "LT" (light truck tires). Also never mix bias ply (commonly used for short trips or when a trailer is parked for long periods) with radial tires (preferred for high-mileage trips).

• Tire inflation is the most basic tire maintenance issue. Tires should be inflated while cold, before the trip -- not during. And if all else fails, having a spare tire is key, but unfortunately most trailer manufacturers neglect to include one as standard equipment. Be sure to bring a tire and rim combo when shopping for your spare as not all are alike. Ensure your jack can handle the trailer as well.

  A tire's worst enemy is dry rot caused by the UV rays. If you store your boat and trailer outside during the winter, remove the tires and keep inside if possible. Tire covers can also help. Moisture can also doom a tire, especially if the trailer sits idle for a long time on grassy, damp ground. Again, removing the tire is best but parking on plywood can also help. If parking on a hard surface such as concrete, ensure that water freely drains away from the trailer after a rainstorm.

• Never use a bumper hitch to pull your boat. The hitch should be rated for the load you'll be pulling, and fastened securely to the tow vehicle frame. This will minimize trailer sway and separation.

• Make certain the coupler on the trailer matches the size of the ball on the hitch. A two inch coupler will fit easily over a one and seven-eighths inch ball, but it you'll run the risk that the coupler will disengage itself from the ball when you hit a bump.

• The tongue weight of the loaded trailer should be 7-10% of the combined weight of the boat and the trailer. If it's less than that you run a good chance of sway while towing. If it's more than that, the tow vehicle will drag it's tail, making your headlights point skyward.

• Know your boat and trailer weight, as overloading can lead to premature wear and potentially dangerous blowouts. Check out the trailer manufacturer's load capacity. Stay below 90% of the recommended load capacity to allow room for the weight of fuel, gear, anchors, lines, and other items you'll be toting with you.

• Most trailer-boaters don't pay nearly as much attention to their trailer as they do to their boat. If you have brakes on your trailer, check the brake fluid level periodically. Have your bearings inspected annually, and packed or replaced when necessary. And at least once a year, tighten all bolts and other trailer hardware.

• Cross the safety chains under the trailer tongue before hooking them to your hitch or frame. If the tongue disengages in transit, it will drop down on the crossed-chain "cradle", and may keep the tongue from dipping to the roadway.

• When launching a sailboat, always be aware of overhead obstructions...tree limbs, power cables, light post extensions, etc.

• The secret to hassle-free launching of your boat is practice, practice, practice. Every boat, trailer, and tow vehicle will have perform a bit differently than any other, so visit the launch ramp when it's not busy and practice turning, backing, unloading, and loading.

• A good trick to backing your trailer is to place your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel of the tow vehicle. If you move your hand to the right, the back of the rig will swing to the right. Move your hand to the left, you bring the back of your trailer to the left.

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  FIRE AND EXTINGUISHERS

• Regulations require that Type B fire extinguishers be onboard where one or more of the following conditions are present:
  • where there is an inboard engine
  • where there is closed living space
  • where there is a permanently mounted fuel tank
  • where there are closed compartments for storage or portable fuel tanks
  • where there is a double bottom not completely filled with foam or sealed to the hull

• The number and type of fire extinguishers are determined by the boat siz and whether or not your boat has a "fixed extinguishing system". Check the regulations and make sure that you are in compliance.

• Although not required by law, a portable fire extinguisher should be mounted in an approved bracket, and the bracket mounted to the boat. Mount the extinguishers where they are readily accessible, but not immediately in the area where fires are likely to occur. For example, mounting a portable extinguisher NEAR passenger seating, the galley, and engine compartment would be prudent, but mounting a portable fire extinguisher INSIDE the engine compartment would be of little value if a fire broke out there.

• If you have a fire, try and put the boat into an orientation that will place the fire downwind. If the fire is in the aft, put the bow into the wind.

• When you use the portable fire extinguisher, empty it into the base of the fire from six feet away. Don't try to use it sparingly to save some for another time. With a small boat extinguisher, you'll have only a few seconds to try and put out the fire, so don't be shy. Point it at the base of the fire and use it all.

• The best way to handle a fire is not to let it happen in the first place. Fire needs combustible materials, heat, and oxygen to erupt or sustain itself. Keep those elements separated and you won't have a fire to deal with. If a fire breaks out, take one of the elements away to extinguish it. Most fire extinguishers take the oxygen out of the equation.

• If you can't control the fire in short order, call for help on your radio or get the attention of another vessel quickly. Don't wait too long to abandon ship if things get hairy, since you're already wearing your PFD anyway...AREN'T you?

• Check the nozzles on your fire extinguishers periodically. Spiders like to build entire communities in there. A strong web can divert or even block the agent from coming through the nozzle, which is an unacceptable condition if your boat is on fire. A pencil point, stick or other pointy object will remove the web easily.

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  BOAT HANDLING

• Become familiar with the handling characteristics of your boat. Most motorboats don't steer very well when they lose power, and current and wind can make it even more difficult. So try and keep "way on" and your boat in motion when maneuvering in tight quarters.

• Practice "backing back". On a quiet day, with no boat traffic nearby, throw something that floats into the water and practice backing up to it. Backing maneuvers are a good way to understand how your vessel "settles out" when you advance and reduce the throttle and turn the wheel.

• It's never a bad idea to have someone else on your boat become familiar with the boat's systems, communications devices, and handling characteristics. That way, if something should happen to the skipper, the vessel could return to port quickly and safely, or help could be summoned.

• When approaching a pier with the wind toward the shore, bring your boat slowly toward the dock space and parallel to it. The wind wind ease you in. If the wind is blowing out to sea, however, you'll want to approach from a steeper angle, secure a bow line to the dock, and then use power to bring the stern in.

• If you're leaving a dock with the wind toward the dock, leave a bow line secured to the dock and back the stern away from the dock. When the boat is nearly perpendicular to the dock, release the bow line and back a safe distance before proceeding forward. If the wind is blowing off the dock, just untie and let mother nature push you away.

• To leave the dock with the wind from dead ahead, keep a stern line attached to the dock and let the bow swing out. Then release the stern line and off you go.

• Try this with a friend in another boat disimilar to your own. Place your boats in a parallel configuration to each other, twenty or thirty yards apart and put your screws in neutral. Now just drift and note the difference in how the boats react to the drift. Knowing how wind and current affect your boat may prove to be helpful if you need to maneuver alongside another boat or pier.

• When passing an oncoming boat, and meet his wake, first you will strike the larger and longer waves of the first wave line, then, with increasing rapidity, the slower and shorter wave components. You are almost sure to be in sync with some of these groups, and they can cause discomfort and sometimes even damage. The only real defense is to slow down before meeting any large boat wake. Then, if traffic will permit, point your bow into the wake to reduce the chances of taking water .

• See if you can tell which skippers at your marina are experienced boat handlers by the way in which they approach the gas dock, their slip, or other boats. Then decide which end of the seamanship scale you fall within. If you're not a confident, skillful boat operator, take a boating course and ask a competent friend to show you some of the ropes.

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  WAKES

• When anticipating meeting another boat's wake, seat all passengers aft or amidships, away from the bow. Most serious injuries are to those seated near the bow.

• Be sure and warn everybody on board when approaching another boat's wake. Passenger who are unaware of the impending shock of a wake may be thrown into windshields or other fixtures on the boat, may fall, or may be thrown overboard.

• Nearly all wake injuries are the result of passengers standing in the boat. The skipper should issue firm instructions that passengers should be SEATED when approaching a wake. This is especially important to the passengers that may be below, and therefore unable to see the danger and prepare for it.

• Slow the boat BEFORE the wake arrives. Don't wait until you're in the middle of the wake pattern before pulling back on the throttle.

• Don't bring your boat to a complete stop. Maintain some headway, so the bow doesn't get shoved aside.

• When overtaking another boat, cross the wake quickly rather than riding the waves. The force of a wake on either side of the hull can cause loss of control and maneuverability, and the longer you stay on the wave, the greater the chance of that happening.

• Try and avoid taking a steep wake on the beam. You should change course briefly into the wake, and then proceed back to your course after clearing the wake.

• Operating an overloaded boat is always dangerous, but the danger is many times greater in areas where there is heavy boat traffic and large wakes. Never overload your boat. Adhere to the limits on your capacity plate.

• Anchor in protected areas. Wakes from passng boats can cause falls, galley accidents, and even structural damage.

• Shallow water increases the height of your boat's wake. Always look behind you when increasing or decreasing throttle, so you are aware of your wakes impact.

• Your speed and your trim determine the size of your wake. Take time to know what kind of wake your boat throws under various trim and speed conditions.

• If your boat is out of trim, or comes on plane slowly, you will throw a larger wake than expected. Make sure your boat is trimmed correctly, and bring the boat on plane as quickly and safely as possible.

• Slow your boat in advance of your wake. If you intend to minimize your wake near a marina, small boat, etc., it is too late to reduce throttle when you are abeam of that objective.

• REMEMBER...YOU ARE LEGALLY RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURIES OR DAMAGE RESULTING FROM YOUR WAKE!

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  SHORE POWER AND ELECTRICAL

• All shore power cords should be rated suitable for Marine Use, or better still, "UL-Marine" listed for marine shore power applications.

• Never use ordinary "outdoor use" extension cords to provide electrical shore power to the boat or any equipment, such as a battery charger on board the boat. These cords are not rated for and are not suitable for the severity of a marine environment. They can deteriorate and/or overheat causing electrical shock, a short circuit, or a fire.

• All shore power cords should have male (plug) and female (connector) ends of the locking type. Make sure that plugs and connector are turned to the fully locked position by pulling on them. If they are properly locked, they will not pull out. A plug or connector not properly locked will become loose and possibly cause arcing (sparks) on the contacts, resulting a failure and/or fire.

• All male ends must be molded on or have weather-proof boots in order to provide a weatherproof seal when plugged into a receptacle.

• All female connector ends must have a locking ring to secure the power cord to the inlet on the boat and provide a weatherproof seal.

• Adapters should always be used at the shore end of a power cord.

• Always make sure that the "Main" circuit breaker on the boat is turned "OFF" before connecting or disconnecting the shore power cord.

• Always connect the female end of the cord to the boat before plugging the male end into the shore power receptacle. Always disconnect the male end from the shore power receptacle before disconnecting the female end from the boat.

• Never leave a shore power cord on the dock with only the plug end connected. A live cord end is dangerous, especially if it accidentally falls into the water.

• Periodically check shore power cords for the following:

• Cuts, cracks, or severe abrasions on the yellow cord covering.

• Bent, broken, or loose plug blades.

• Plug blades or connector slots that show signs of overheating or arcing, such as:

• Brown or black discoloration on insulation around blades or slots.

• Discoloration and/or corrosion of blade material.

• Faulty locking rings due to cracking or damaged threads.

• Do not allow cords to be pinched by a closed door or hatch. Pinch points create resistance and generate heat that can result in a fire.

• Never coil a live cord tightly on the dock. Such a coil acts as a heat generator and can cause a fire. Hang the cord loosely on a hook or support, or lay it out in a loose coil of only a few turns.

• Spray all contacts monthly with an electrical contact cleaner, corrosion inhibitor and lubricant, such as LPS-1 made by Holt Lloyd Corporation. Please note that "WD-40" or silicone sprays are NOT appropriate because the filmy residue increases contact resistance. The proper spray types can be found at electrical supply houses or stores such as Radio Shack.

• If a shore power cord should become immersed in water, it should be immediately rinsed or sprayed with fresh water, thoroughly dried, and the blades and contact slots sprayed with a moisture displacement before re-using.

• Don't use automotive parts to replace such items as starters, distributors, alternators, generators, carburetors, fuel pumps, etc., on your boat engine! They are not ignition protected and could cause a fire or explosion.

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  GENERAL TIPS

• When special passengers are on board, be sure and take into consideration extraordinary loads, such as the weight of an electric wheelchair or mobility scooter. These special needs items can add significant weight to your boat's load which can affect trim and handling.

• Teach a child or friend how to sail, or introduce them to boating.

• Check your flares, fire extinguisher and other safely equipment to be certain it's in good condition and up-to-date. The U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary and U.S. Power Squadrons offer free vessel safety checks that can help identify these or any other potential problems.

• The next time you go fishing, experiment with circle hooks. These fish-saving hooks will save an angler's excitement of the catch for another day-- or perhaps even for your own child.

• Familiarize yourself with an online weather service so it becomes a routine part of your pre-departure planning. Knowing potential conditions before you go makes float planning easier.

• Fuel up your boat without spilling a drop overboard, and contain engine room drops and spills with bilge pads and socks. The cumulative effects of a little drop here and there can add up.

• Purchase and wear an inflatable life jacket. Being comfortable in your life saving, personal floatation device means you will use it.

• Tune your engine. An engine running at top performance can drastically reduce harmful exhaust or oil emissions and you'll get more miles to the gallon.

• Set up some easy to identify, separate trash and recycling containers aboard. A readily available disposal system helps everyone keep trash out of the water.

• Save the alcohol for when you arrive safely back at the dock. Over half of all boating accidents and about a third of boating fatalities are alcohol related.

• Make a donation to your favorite educational or marine conservation group. In doing so, you will make a positive difference for every boater, and gain a great sense of personal satisfaction.

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